The Omniplate - A universal action figure stand [UPDATED 7/27]
Posted in
Action Figure ChatterDue to different foot sizes and how action figures are manufactured, the holes in their feet can vary in size. This means a poor fit can happen even within the same toy line while using the same stands.
To address this, here's my idea for figure stands that should be compatible with almost any action figure.
The plates connect to the foot holes with a removable, slotted peg. Either end can be plugged into either the figure or the plate so the best combination can be used for any situation.
There are several holes in the plates, making this a modular system that can adapt to any figure.
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[PLATE #1]
This plate provides stability for figures that are standing upright. It's designed to allow both the figure's feet to make contact with it. Only one peg needs to be used.
For figures with very large feet, two of these (plus an extra peg) can be used by aligning the plates lengthwise with each foot.
[REVISIONS]
•I think the edges of the plates should extend a little farther out, to provide stability even when the figure holds heavy accessories with outstretched arms.
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[PLATE #2]
This plate is best used in pairs, it gives the figure stability when in dynamic poses. One plate and peg is used per foot.
3.75in. figures are small enough to stand centered on a single plate.
There could be variants with some flame or lightning effects, for flaming kicks, stomp effects, etc.
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[THE PEG]
This is what makes the system outstanding. The slotted, ribbed end allows the peg to fit into slightly smaller and slightly larger foot holes.
I think the slit end could be slotted in a cross, to create 4 prongs. This makes it easier to squeeze into smaller holes. Also, if one of the prongs ever breaks. The other 3 are enough to keep it functional. Up to 2 prongs could break (one on either side) and the peg will still be functional. However, a single slot would also work if 4 prongs would be too fragile at this size.
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I think a system like this would solve the problem of all those different sized holes in figures. I'm sure we could easily expand this system by adding interlocking edges like Marauder Gun Runner stands.
Other things to take into consideration:
•Foot holes have different depths. I think people can simply modify the pegs as needed by simply shaving off excess length from the solid end.
•I think it's reasonable to include maybe 2 pegs with each plate, and sell extras for 10 cents or whatever.
•Some figures don't have foot holes and must be drilled. The solid end of the peg should be a common drill bit size, so people can just buy a drill bit of that size and easily make a snug hole in the foot. (A 1/8th drill bit works well with 3.2mm rods.)
•In theory, this system could work with ANY figure, simply by creating thinner or thicker slotted pegs as needed.
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[PROTOTYPE PLATE #2 TESTING]
Made this with styrene and a standard LEGO rod (3.2mm diameter). It may look crude, but it works exactly like I intended.
Figures that are 3.75in., 6in. and 7in. scale can all center their feet on the stands. The 3.75in figures can stand centered on a single plate.
The 3.75in figure here has the hole in the middle of the foot.
I sized the plate so that figures can use two of them side-by-side to stand normally, in any orientation.
I found that the hole size between the 3.75in. and 7in.+ figs is simply too big for one peg to adjust to. I have to make a smaller peg specifically for the smaller figures. The 3.2mm peg works fine for the 6in and 7in figs though.
Stability is great, I was surprised at how far a figure could tip before falling over. And I was only using one plate!
For the extreme poses, I found that not centering the foot greatly increases stability. This is because you can then pivot the plate so it rests where support is most needed.
Here you can see how the plates are offset to provide support:
Look how far this heavy fig can lean, still using only 1 plate!:
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[FOOT HOLE DATA COLLECTION]
I'm stuffing a LEGO rod (3.18mm) into the foot holes of all my figures to learn what size pegs work best. Feel free to post your own data!
I'll list the toy line and how the rod fits, noted as; Loose, Snug (ideal) or Tight.
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DC Direct
Supergirl (2003 Superman Series) - T
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Mattel
Halo 6 inch
Fotus spartan - S
Helioskrill - S
Elite Officer - S
DCUC
Superman (black recovery suit) - S
Kamandi - S
WWE (Elite males, Basic females)
Big John Studd - T
AJ Lee (series 30) - S
Alicia Fox (Series 23) - S
Kaitlyn - S
Asuka - S
Beth Phoenix - S
Macho Man (slim jim colors) - T
Bret Hart (defining moments) - T
RVD - T
The Miz - T
Stone Cold - T and S (has two different shape holes, wtf)
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Marvel Legends 6 inch
Star Lord (v1) - L
Havok (juggernaut series) - L
Speed Demon - T
Spiderman 2099 (Hasbro, classic version) - S
Spiderman (ASM2 Goblin wave) - L
Wasp/Medusa (Hasbro) - L
Maria Hill/Sharon Carter (2-pack with iron man) - L
Lady Deathstrike (Toy Biz) - S
Judge Dredd (LCBH) - S
Nova (groot series) - S
Phoenix (juggernaut series) - S
Punisher (Walgreens exclusive) - S
Thundra - L
Radioactive Man - L
Sentry (RM body) - L and S
Electro (ASM2) - L
Savage Dragon (LCBH) - S
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Star Wars 6 inch Hasbro
Clonetrooper - S
Guavian Soldier? - S
First Order Stormtrooper - S
First Order Flametrooper- S
First Order Deathtrooper- S
First Order Snowtrooper - T (hole is way too small)
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NECA
TMNT Ninja Turtles (5 inch comic style) - S
MCFARLANE
Blisk (titanfall 2) - S
Please wait...
Posted by
Henchmen4Hire on Thursday, June 21, 2018 - Updated on Monday, July 30, 2018
Update Topic
The tabs instead of pegs is a good idea. Pegs are harder to fit into holes if they're the wrong size, but the narrow tabs can more easily stretch a hole in the feet even if they're a little too big, which is fine because you want snugness.
Also funny that it resembles the Omnicorp logo more than my Omniplates.
I think they're gonna be too expensive though, based on all the other items on his site.
Oh well.
Whatever, it's coming!
•2mm thick sheet styrene also works, I'm just going to glue the pegs.
•Plastic rods are cheap from China, I ordered 3mm and 4mm sticks.
NECA V for Vendetta - Length/31.9mm, Width/11.6mm, Peg Diameter/3.5mm
DC Collectibles The Atom - Length/28.3mm, Width/9.6mm, Peg Diameter/3.6mm
DC Direct Arkham City Robin - Length/25.5mm, Width/10.6mm, Peg Diameter/3.3mm
ToyBiz King Theoden Two Towers - Length/27.3mm, Width/10.6mm, Peg Diameter/3.1mm
Hasbro Mace Windu - Length/17mm, Width/7.1mm, Peg Diameter/2.8mm
McFarlane Series 6 Rick Grimes - Length/22mm, Width/7.9mm, Peg Diameter/2.6mm
Hasbro Sabine Wren - Length/12.3mm, Width/4.9mm, Peg Diameter/2.5mm
Thanks, that's crazy how the peg hole diameters are so inconsistent. The peg I designed works with hole sizes between roughly 2.9mm and 4mm, I think another, thinner peg needs to be made for the 2mm to 3mm holes. I think slotted pegs might be too brittle at that diameter though, only testing will tell for sure.
TLDR;
I'm a genius, give me lots of money. Please? lol
Bend it in half, twist all but the last 2 inches on the loose ends.
Dip it, add base.
It even works for flying figures, and can be hidden with creative bending.
But that gives me an idea. If I leave the underside of the plate hollow, there should be enough space so people can use that wire idea and loop it through the holes, possibly creating flight stands. In certain configurations, at least it gives the figures a stiff spine to rest against.
If I make the plates interlock somehow, that would be a neat way of letting people make as big a plate as they need...
There could also be some molded tabs in the hollow underside though, where people can wedge in some round magnets or something. I think hot glue would work just as well though lol
Please, please post measurements of your figures' feet, we gotta figure out the dimensions for the plates.
I'm going to make some prototype plates with styrene to get an idea of what shape and size they need to be to provide the most stability in the most situations. I REALLY need people to measure their figures' feet and foot holes and post the data so I can add it up there. That will help me get a ballpark for the dimensions of these things.
Looked at some other stands currently out there, I want to aim for a cost of around 20 cents per single-foot stand, with one peg included. Most people will buy 2 per figure, so roughly 40 to 50 cents per pair. Is that fair?
Customer pays the shipping so I'm not worried about that, although I guess it would cut down on the cost of packaging.
That was scary for my fingers but it was a success. After some test fitting, I discovered there's an optimal length for the prongs. I snipped them so now they'll flex enough to fit in a smaller hole but still spring back to normal when removed. A little sanding cleaned everything up.
And it works! Almost all the "tight" fits listed above became comfortably "snug." The only one that still wouldn't take the peg is the Snowtrooper, and that's because the holes are much smaller than the other figs'. That requires a thinner peg to begin with.
While I don't have a way to add the ribs to the peg to retest the "loose" fits listed, I remembered that LEGO already made a slit rod with ribs! It's found on modified plates with wheel attachment pins. The ribs take the form of a "lip" on the tip, but serve the same purpose, to add a little girth.
And it works! It pops into the larger heel holes and stays in there, anchored by the lips. Adding another pair of ribs on the shaft would definitely make it sturdier though.
Unfortunately I can't harvest these LEGO pins. After cutting them off the LEGO element they aren't long enough to plug into the base.
I'm going to test all the heel holes in my figs and see if there's a pattern. I'll be using a LEGO rod, which is exactly 3.18mm.
I saw a vid with the magnets and metal washers, looks neat though I think you would have to spray the washers with specialty sealer to prevent rust. Plastic stands should be cheaper and have the added benefit of being available in clear plastic.